The Innocents Abroad


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take in washing. I was then conducted down stairs into the wet, slippery  
court, and the first things that attracted my attention were my heels.  
My fall excited no comment. They expected it, no doubt. It belonged in  
the list of softening, sensuous influences peculiar to this home of  
Eastern luxury. It was softening enough, certainly, but its application  
was not happy. They now gave me a pair of wooden clogs--benches in  
miniature, with leather straps over them to confine my feet (which they  
would have done, only I do not wear No. 13s.) These things dangled  
uncomfortably by the straps when I lifted up my feet, and came down in  
awkward and unexpected places when I put them on the floor again, and  
sometimes turned sideways and wrenched my ankles out of joint. However,  
it was all Oriental luxury, and I did what I could to enjoy it.  
They put me in another part of the barn and laid me on a stuffy sort of  
pallet, which was not made of cloth of gold, or Persian shawls, but was  
merely the unpretending sort of thing I have seen in the negro quarters  
of Arkansas. There was nothing whatever in this dim marble prison but  
five more of these biers. It was a very solemn place. I expected that  
the spiced odors of Araby were going to steal over my senses now, but  
they did not. A copper-colored skeleton, with a rag around him, brought  
me a glass decanter of water, with a lighted tobacco pipe in the top of  
it, and a pliant stem a yard long, with a brass mouth-piece to it.  
It was the famous "narghili" of the East--the thing the Grand Turk smokes  
in the pictures. This began to look like luxury. I took one blast at  
it, and it was sufficient; the smoke went in a great volume down into my  
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Page
426 427 428 429 430

Quick Jump
1 187 374 560 747