The Innocents Abroad


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part of Africa, yet within memory and tradition have never existed in any  
portion of Spain save this lone peak of Gibraltar! So the theory is that  
the channel between Gibraltar and Africa was once dry land, and that the  
low, neutral neck between Gibraltar and the Spanish hills behind it was  
once ocean, and of course that these African animals, being over at  
Gibraltar (after rock, perhaps--there is plenty there), got closed out  
when the great change occurred. The hills in Africa, across the channel,  
are full of apes, and there are now and always have been apes on the rock  
of Gibraltar--but not elsewhere in Spain! The subject is an interesting  
one.  
There is an English garrison at Gibraltar of 6,000 or 7,000 men, and so  
uniforms of flaming red are plenty; and red and blue, and undress  
costumes of snowy white, and also the queer uniform of the bare-kneed  
Highlander; and one sees soft-eyed Spanish girls from San Roque, and  
veiled Moorish beauties (I suppose they are beauties) from Tarifa, and  
turbaned, sashed, and trousered Moorish merchants from Fez, and  
long-robed, bare-legged, ragged Muhammadan vagabonds from Tetuan and  
Tangier, some brown, some yellow and some as black as virgin ink--and  
Jews from all around, in gabardine, skullcap, and slippers, just as they  
are in pictures and theaters, and just as they were three thousand years  
ago, no doubt. You can easily understand that a tribe (somehow our  
pilgrims suggest that expression, because they march in a straggling  
procession through these foreign places with such an Indian-like air of  
complacency and independence about them) like ours, made up from fifteen  
or sixteen states of the Union, found enough to stare at in this  
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Quick Jump
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