The Innocents Abroad


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river.  
We looked every where, as we passed along, but never saw grain or crystal  
of Lot's wife. It was a great disappointment. For many and many a year  
we had known her sad story, and taken that interest in her which  
misfortune always inspires. But she was gone. Her picturesque form no  
longer looms above the desert of the Dead Sea to remind the tourist of  
the doom that fell upon the lost cities.  
I can not describe the hideous afternoon's ride from the Dead Sea to Mars  
Saba. It oppresses me yet, to think of it. The sun so pelted us that  
the tears ran down our cheeks once or twice. The ghastly, treeless,  
grassless, breathless canons smothered us as if we had been in an oven.  
The sun had positive weight to it, I think. Not a man could sit erect  
under it. All drooped low in the saddles. John preached in this  
"
Wilderness!" It must have been exhausting work. What a very heaven the  
messy towers and ramparts of vast Mars Saba looked to us when we caught  
a
first glimpse of them!  
We staid at this great convent all night, guests of the hospitable  
priests. Mars Saba, perched upon a crag, a human nest stock high up  
against a perpendicular mountain wall, is a world of grand masonry that  
rises, terrace upon terrace away above your head, like the terraced and  
retreating colonnades one sees in fanciful pictures of Belshazzar's Feast  
and the palaces of the ancient Pharaohs. No other human dwelling is  
680  


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Quick Jump
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