The Innocents Abroad


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handsomely paved with the heavy Russ blocks, and the surface is neat and  
true as a floor--not marred by holes like Broadway. And every road is  
fenced in by tall, solid lava walls, which will last a thousand years in  
this land where frost is unknown. They are very thick, and are often  
plastered and whitewashed and capped with projecting slabs of cut stone.  
Trees from gardens above hang their swaying tendrils down, and contrast  
their bright green with the whitewash or the black lava of the walls and  
make them beautiful. The trees and vines stretch across these narrow  
roadways sometimes and so shut out the sun that you seem to be riding  
through a tunnel. The pavements, the roads, and the bridges are all  
government work.  
The bridges are of a single span--a single arch--of cut stone, without a  
support, and paved on top with flags of lava and ornamental pebblework.  
Everywhere are walls, walls, walls, and all of them tasteful and  
handsome--and eternally substantial; and everywhere are those marvelous  
pavements, so neat, so smooth, and so indestructible. And if ever roads  
and streets and the outsides of houses were perfectly free from any sign  
or semblance of dirt, or dust, or mud, or uncleanliness of any kind, it  
is Horta, it is Fayal. The lower classes of the people, in their persons  
and their domiciles, are not clean--but there it stops--the town and the  
island are miracles of cleanliness.  
We arrived home again finally, after a ten-mile excursion, and the  
irrepressible muleteers scampered at our heels through the main street,  
goading the donkeys, shouting the everlasting "Sekki-yah," and singing  
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Page
66 67 68 69 70

Quick Jump
1 187 374 560 747