The Innocents Abroad


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them of the Virgin and Mary Magdalen; next to the rift in the living rock  
made by the earthquake at the time of the Crucifixion, and an extension  
of which he had seen before in the wall of one of the grottoes below; he  
looks next at the show-case with a figure of the Virgin in it, and is  
amazed at the princely fortune in precious gems and jewelry that hangs so  
thickly about the form as to hide it like a garment almost. All about  
the apartment the gaudy trappings of the Greek Church offend the eye and  
keep the mind on the rack to remember that this is the Place of the  
Crucifixion--Golgotha--the Mount of Calvary. And the last thing he looks  
at is that which was also the first--the place where the true Cross  
stood. That will chain him to the spot and compel him to look once more,  
and once again, after he has satisfied all curiosity and lost all  
interest concerning the other matters pertaining to the locality.  
And so I close my chapter on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre--the most  
sacred locality on earth to millions and millions of men, and women, and  
children, the noble and the humble, bond and free. In its history from  
the first, and in its tremendous associations, it is the most illustrious  
edifice in Christendom. With all its clap-trap side-shows and unseemly  
impostures of every kind, it is still grand, reverend, venerable--for a  
god died there; for fifteen hundred years its shrines have been wet with  
the tears of pilgrims from the earth's remotest confines; for more than  
two hundred, the most gallant knights that ever wielded sword wasted  
their lives away in a struggle to seize it and hold it sacred from  
infidel pollution. Even in our own day a war, that cost millions of  
treasure and rivers of blood, was fought because two rival nations  
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