The Innocents Abroad


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thirty-five or forty dollars a year.  
I knew the warrior's secret now; I knew the hollow vanity of his rusty  
trumpery, and despised his asinine complacency. I told on him, and with  
reckless daring the cavalcade straight ahead into the perilous solitudes  
of the desert, and scorned his frantic warnings of the mutilation and  
death that hovered about them on every side.  
Arrived at an elevation of twelve hundred feet above the lake, (I ought  
to mention that the lake lies six hundred feet below the level of the  
Mediterranean--no traveler ever neglects to flourish that fragment of  
news in his letters,) as bald and unthrilling a panorama as any land can  
afford, perhaps, was spread out before us. Yet it was so crowded with  
historical interest, that if all the pages that have been written about  
it were spread upon its surface, they would flag it from horizon to  
horizon like a pavement. Among the localities comprised in this view,  
were Mount Hermon; the hills that border Cesarea Philippi, Dan, the  
Sources of the Jordan and the Waters of Merom; Tiberias; the Sea of  
Galilee; Joseph's Pit; Capernaum; Bethsaida; the supposed scenes of the  
Sermon on the Mount, the feeding of the multitudes and the miraculous  
draught of fishes; the declivity down which the swine ran to the sea; the  
entrance and the exit of the Jordan; Safed, "the city set upon a hill,"  
one of the four holy cities of the Jews, and the place where they believe  
the real Messiah will appear when he comes to redeem the world; part of  
the battle-field of Hattin, where the knightly Crusaders fought their  
last fight, and in a blaze of glory passed from the stage and ended their  
587  


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585 586 587 588 589

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