The Innocents Abroad


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distance from circumference to centre; when, in the lazy summer  
afternoon, he lies in a boat, far out to where the dead blue of the deep  
water begins, and smokes the pipe of peace and idly winks at the  
distant crags and patches of snow from under his cap-brim; when the boat  
drifts shoreward to the white water, and he lolls over the gunwale and  
gazes by the hour down through the crystal depths and notes the colors of  
the pebbles and reviews the finny armies gliding in procession a hundred  
feet below; when at night he sees moon and stars, mountain ridges  
feathered with pines, jutting white capes, bold promontories, grand  
sweeps of rugged scenery topped with bald, glimmering peaks, all  
magnificently pictured in the polished mirror of the lake, in richest,  
softest detail, the tranquil interest that was born with the morning  
deepens and deepens, by sure degrees, till it culminates at last in  
resistless fascination!  
It is solitude, for birds and squirrels on the shore and fishes in the  
water are all the creatures that are near to make it otherwise, but it is  
not the sort of solitude to make one dreary. Come to Galilee for that.  
If these unpeopled deserts, these rusty mounds of barrenness, that never,  
never, never do shake the glare from their harsh outlines, and fade and  
faint into vague perspective; that melancholy ruin of Capernaum; this  
stupid village of Tiberias, slumbering under its six funereal plumes of  
palms; yonder desolate declivity where the swine of the miracle ran down  
into the sea, and doubtless thought it was better to swallow a devil or  
two and get drowned into the bargain than have to live longer in such a  
place; this cloudless, blistering sky; this solemn, sailless, tintless  
575  


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573 574 575 576 577

Quick Jump
1 187 374 560 747