The Innocents Abroad


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Ben Israel spent three years here in the early part of the third century.  
He is dead, now.  
The celebrated Sea of Galilee is not so large a sea as Lake Tahoe  
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-[I measure all lakes by Tahoe, partly because I am far more familiar with  
it than with any other, and partly because I have such a high admiration  
for it and such a world of pleasant recollections of it, that it is very  
nearly impossible for me to speak of lakes and not mention it.]--by a  
good deal--it is just about two-thirds as large. And when we come to  
speak of beauty, this sea is no more to be compared to Tahoe than a  
meridian of longitude is to a rainbow. The dim waters of this pool can  
not suggest the limpid brilliancy of Tahoe; these low, shaven, yellow  
hillocks of rocks and sand, so devoid of perspective, can not suggest the  
grand peaks that compass Tahoe like a wall, and whose ribbed and chasmed  
fronts are clad with stately pines that seem to grow small and smaller as  
they climb, till one might fancy them reduced to weeds and shrubs far  
upward, where they join the everlasting snows. Silence and solitude  
brood over Tahoe; and silence and solitude brood also over this lake of  
Genessaret. But the solitude of the one is as cheerful and fascinating  
as the solitude of the other is dismal and repellant.  
In the early morning one watches the silent battle of dawn and darkness  
upon the waters of Tahoe with a placid interest; but when the shadows  
sulk away and one by one the hidden beauties of the shore unfold  
themselves in the full splendor of noon; when the still surface is belted  
like a rainbow with broad bars of blue and green and white, half the  
574  


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