The Innocents Abroad


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wrapped in wintry costumes and looking sleepy and unhappy in the pitiless  
gale and the drenching spray.  
The island in sight was Flores. It seemed only a mountain of mud  
standing up out of the dull mists of the sea. But as we bore down upon  
it the sun came out and made it a beautiful picture--a mass of green  
farms and meadows that swelled up to a height of fifteen hundred feet and  
mingled its upper outlines with the clouds. It was ribbed with sharp,  
steep ridges and cloven with narrow canyons, and here and there on the  
heights, rocky upheavals shaped themselves into mimic battlements and  
castles; and out of rifted clouds came broad shafts of sunlight, that  
painted summit, and slope and glen, with bands of fire, and left belts of  
somber shade between. It was the aurora borealis of the frozen pole  
exiled to a summer land!  
We skirted around two-thirds of the island, four miles from shore, and  
all the opera glasses in the ship were called into requisition to settle  
disputes as to whether mossy spots on the uplands were groves of trees or  
groves of weeds, or whether the white villages down by the sea were  
really villages or only the clustering tombstones of cemeteries. Finally  
we stood to sea and bore away for San Miguel, and Flores shortly became a  
dome of mud again and sank down among the mists, and disappeared. But  
to  
many a seasick passenger it was good to see the green hills again, and  
all were more cheerful after this episode than anybody could have  
expected them to be, considering how sinfully early they had gotten up.  
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