The Innocents Abroad


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people; wherever you look, your eye rests upon a wild masquerade of  
extravagant costumes; the workshops are all open to the streets, and the  
workmen visible; all manner of sounds assail the ear, and over them all  
rings out the muezzin's cry from some tall minaret, calling the faithful  
vagabonds to prayer; and superior to the call to prayer, the noises in  
the streets, the interest of the costumes--superior to every thing, and  
claiming the bulk of attention first, last, and all the time--is a  
combination of Mohammedan stenches, to which the smell of even a  
Chinese  
quarter would be as pleasant as the roasting odors of the fatted calf to  
the nostrils of the returning Prodigal. Such is Oriental luxury--such is  
Oriental splendor! We read about it all our days, but we comprehend it  
not until we see it. Smyrna is a very old city. Its name occurs several  
times in the Bible, one or two of the disciples of Christ visited it, and  
here was located one of the original seven apocalyptic churches spoken of  
in Revelations. These churches were symbolized in the Scriptures as  
candlesticks, and on certain conditions there was a sort of implied  
promise that Smyrna should be endowed with a "crown of life." She was to  
"be faithful unto death"--those were the terms. She has not kept up her  
faith straight along, but the pilgrims that wander hither consider that  
she has come near enough to it to save her, and so they point to the fact  
that Smyrna to-day wears her crown of life, and is a great city, with a  
great commerce and full of energy, while the cities wherein were located  
the other six churches, and to which no crown of life was promised, have  
vanished from the earth. So Smyrna really still possesses her crown of  
life, in a business point of view. Her career, for eighteen centuries,  
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460 461 462 463 464

Quick Jump
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