suppressed there every day, and spring up the next day under a new name.

During the ten days or a fortnight we staid there one paper was murdered

and resurrected twice. The newsboys are smart there, just as they are

elsewhere. They take advantage of popular weaknesses. When they find

they are not likely to sell out, they approach a citizen mysteriously,

and say in a low voice--"Last copy, sir: double price; paper just been

suppressed!" The man buys it, of course, and finds nothing in it. They

do say--I do not vouch for it--but they do say that men sometimes print a

vast edition of a paper, with a ferociously seditious article in it,

distribute it quickly among the newsboys, and clear out till the

Government's indignation cools. It pays well. Confiscation don't amount

to any thing. The type and presses are not worth taking care of.

There is only one English newspaper in Naples. It has seventy

subscribers. The publisher is getting rich very deliberately--very

deliberately indeed.

I never shall want another Turkish lunch. The cooking apparatus was in

the little lunch room, near the bazaar, and it was all open to the

street. The cook was slovenly, and so was the table, and it had no cloth

on it. The fellow took a mass of sausage meat and coated it round a wire

and laid it on a charcoal fire to cook. When it was done, he laid it

aside and a dog walked sadly in and nipped it. He smelt it first, and

probably recognized the remains of a friend. The cook took it away from

him and laid it before us. Jack said, "I pass"--he plays euchre

sometimes--and we all passed in turn. Then the cook baked a broad, flat,

425

The Innocents Abroad