The Innocents Abroad


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out all around him like a balloon.  
They made no noise of any kind, and most of them tilted their heads back  
and closed their eyes, entranced with a sort of devotional ecstacy.  
There was a rude kind of music, part of the time, but the musicians were  
not visible. None but spinners were allowed within the circle. A man  
had to either spin or stay outside. It was about as barbarous an  
exhibition as we have witnessed yet. Then sick persons came and lay  
down, and beside them women laid their sick children (one a babe at the  
breast,) and the patriarch of the Dervishes walked upon their bodies. He  
was supposed to cure their diseases by trampling upon their breasts or  
backs or standing on the back of their necks. This is well enough for a  
people who think all their affairs are made or marred by viewless spirits  
of the air--by giants, gnomes, and genii--and who still believe, to this  
day, all the wild tales in the Arabian Nights. Even so an intelligent  
missionary tells me.  
We visited the Thousand and One Columns. I do not know what it was  
originally intended for, but they said it was built for a reservoir. It  
is situated in the centre of Constantinople. You go down a flight of  
stone steps in the middle of a barren place, and there you are. You are  
forty feet under ground, and in the midst of a perfect wilderness of  
tall, slender, granite columns, of Byzantine architecture. Stand where  
you would, or change your position as often as you pleased, you were  
always a centre from which radiated a dozen long archways and colonnades  
that lost themselves in distance and the sombre twilight of the place.  
413  


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411 412 413 414 415

Quick Jump
1 187 374 560 747