The Innocents Abroad


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death with taxation to uphold a perishing Government?  
As far as I can see, Italy, for fifteen hundred years, has turned all her  
energies, all her finances, and all her industry to the building up of a  
vast array of wonderful church edifices, and starving half her citizens  
to accomplish it. She is to-day one vast museum of magnificence and  
misery. All the churches in an ordinary American city put together could  
hardly buy the jeweled frippery in one of her hundred cathedrals. And  
for every beggar in America, Italy can show a hundred--and rags and  
vermin to match. It is the wretchedest, princeliest land on earth.  
Look at the grand Duomo of Florence--a vast pile that has been sapping  
the purses of her citizens for five hundred years, and is not nearly  
finished yet. Like all other men, I fell down and worshipped it, but  
when the filthy beggars swarmed around me the contrast was too striking,  
too suggestive, and I said, "O, sons of classic Italy, is the spirit of  
enterprise, of self-reliance, of noble endeavor, utterly dead within ye?  
Curse your indolent worthlessness, why don't you rob your church?"  
Three hundred happy, comfortable priests are employed in that Cathedral.  
And now that my temper is up, I may as well go on and abuse every body I  
can think of. They have a grand mausoleum in Florence, which they built  
to bury our Lord and Saviour and the Medici family in. It sounds  
blasphemous, but it is true, and here they act blasphemy. The dead and  
damned Medicis who cruelly tyrannized over Florence and were her curse  
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