The Innocents Abroad


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reduced their numbers. There was the great Jesuit Church. Under the old  
regime it required sixty priests to engineer it--the Government does it  
with five, now, and the others are discharged from service. All about  
that church wretchedness and poverty abound. At its door a dozen hats  
and bonnets were doffed to us, as many heads were humbly bowed, and as  
many hands extended, appealing for pennies--appealing with foreign words  
we could not understand, but appealing mutely, with sad eyes, and sunken  
cheeks, and ragged raiment, that no words were needed to translate. Then  
we passed within the great doors, and it seemed that the riches of the  
world were before us! Huge columns carved out of single masses of  
marble, and inlaid from top to bottom with a hundred intricate figures  
wrought in costly verde antique; pulpits of the same rich materials,  
whose draperies hung down in many a pictured fold, the stony fabric  
counterfeiting the delicate work of the loom; the grand altar brilliant  
with polished facings and balustrades of oriental agate, jasper, verde  
antique, and other precious stones, whose names, even, we seldom hear  
-
-and slabs of priceless lapis lazuli lavished every where as recklessly as  
if the church had owned a quarry of it. In the midst of all this  
magnificence, the solid gold and silver furniture of the altar seemed  
cheap and trivial. Even the floors and ceilings cost a princely fortune.  
Now, where is the use of allowing all those riches to lie idle, while  
half of that community hardly know, from day to day, how they are going  
to keep body and soul together? And, where is the wisdom in</