The Innocents Abroad


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railroading that had three miles of tunnel to a hundred yards of  
daylight, and we were not inclined to be sociable with Florence. We had  
seen the spot, outside the city somewhere, where these people had allowed  
the bones of Galileo to rest in unconsecrated ground for an age because  
his great discovery that the world turned around was regarded as a  
damning heresy by the church; and we know that long after the world had  
accepted his theory and raised his name high in the list of its great  
men, they had still let him rot there. That we had lived to see his dust  
in honored sepulture in the church of Santa Croce we owed to a society of  
literati, and not to Florence or her rulers. We saw Dante's tomb in that  
church, also, but we were glad to know that his body was not in it; that  
the ungrateful city that had exiled him and persecuted him would give  
much to have it there, but need not hope to ever secure that high honor  
to herself. Medicis are good enough for Florence. Let her plant Medicis  
and build grand monuments over them to testify how gratefully she was  
wont to lick the hand that scourged her.  
Magnanimous Florence! Her jewelry marts are filled with artists in  
mosaic. Florentine mosaics are the choicest in all the world. Florence  
loves to have that said. Florence is proud of it. Florence would foster  
this specialty of hers. She is grateful to the artists that bring to her  
this high credit and fill her coffers with foreign money, and so she  
encourages them with pensions. With pensions! Think of the lavishness  
of it. She knows that people who piece together the beautiful trifles  
die early, because the labor is so confining, and so exhausting to hand  
and brain, and so she has decreed that all these people who reach the age  
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