The Innocents Abroad


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every thing was written down and nothing spoken out." They fill nearly  
three hundred rooms. Among them are manuscripts from the archives of  
nearly two thousand families, monasteries and convents. The secret  
history of Venice for a thousand years is here--its plots, its hidden  
trials, its assassinations, its commissions of hireling spies and masked  
bravoes--food, ready to hand, for a world of dark and mysterious  
romances.  
Yes, I think we have seen all of Venice. We have seen, in these old  
churches, a profusion of costly and elaborate sepulchre ornamentation  
such as we never dreampt of before. We have stood in the dim religious  
light of these hoary sanctuaries, in the midst of long ranks of dusty  
monuments and effigies of the great dead of Venice, until we seemed  
drifting back, back, back, into the solemn past, and looking upon the  
scenes and mingling with the peoples of a remote antiquity. We have been  
in a half-waking sort of dream all the time. I do not know how else to  
describe the feeling. A part of our being has remained still in the  
nineteenth century, while another part of it has seemed in some  
unaccountable way walking among the phantoms of the tenth.  
We have seen famous pictures until our eyes are weary with looking at  
them and refuse to find interest in them any longer. And what wonder,  
when there are twelve hundred pictures by Palma the Younger in Venice and  
fifteen hundred by Tintoretto? And behold there are Titians and the  
works of other artists in proportion. We have seen Titian's celebrated  
Cain and Abel, his David and Goliah, his Abraham's Sacrifice. We have  
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