The Innocents Abroad


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There was music every where--choruses, string bands, brass bands, flutes,  
every thing. I was so surrounded, walled in, with music, magnificence  
and loveliness, that I became inspired with the spirit of the scene, and  
sang one tune myself. However, when I observed that the other gondolas  
had sailed away, and my gondolier was preparing to go overboard, I  
stopped.  
The fete was magnificent. They kept it up the whole night long, and I  
never enjoyed myself better than I did while it lasted.  
What a funny old city this Queen of the Adriatic is! Narrow streets,  
vast, gloomy marble palaces, black with the corroding damps of centuries,  
and all partly submerged; no dry land visible any where, and no sidewalks  
worth mentioning; if you want to go to church, to the theatre, or to the  
restaurant, you must call a gondola. It must be a paradise for cripples,  
for verily a man has no use for legs here.  
For a day or two the place looked so like an overflowed Arkansas town,  
because of its currentless waters laving the very doorsteps of all the  
houses, and the cluster of boats made fast under the windows, or skimming  
in and out of the alleys and by-ways, that I could not get rid of the  
impression that there was nothing the matter here but a spring freshet,  
and that the river would fall in a few weeks and leave a dirty high-water  
mark on the houses, and the streets full of mud and rubbish.  
In the glare of day, there is little poetry about Venice, but under the  
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