The Innocents Abroad


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even perched upon jutting and picturesque pinnacles a thousand feet above  
your head.  
Again, for miles along the shores, handsome country seats, surrounded by  
gardens and groves, sit fairly in the water, sometimes in nooks carved by  
Nature out of the vine-hung precipices, and with no ingress or egress  
save by boats. Some have great broad stone staircases leading down to  
the water, with heavy stone balustrades ornamented with statuary and  
fancifully adorned with creeping vines and bright-colored flowers--for  
all the world like a drop curtain in a theatre, and lacking nothing but  
long-waisted, high-heeled women and plumed gallants in silken tights  
coming down to go serenading in the splendid gondola in waiting.  
A great feature of Como's attractiveness is the multitude of pretty  
houses and gardens that cluster upon its shores and on its mountain  
sides. They look so snug and so homelike, and at eventide when every  
thing seems to slumber, and the music of the vesper bells comes stealing  
over the water, one almost believes that nowhere else than on the lake of  
Como can there be found such a paradise of tranquil repose.  
From my window here in Bellaggio, I have a view of the other side of the  
lake now, which is as beautiful as a picture. A scarred and wrinkled  
precipice rises to a height of eighteen hundred feet; on a tiny bench  
half way up its vast wall, sits a little snowflake of a church, no bigger  
than a martin-box, apparently; skirting the base of the cliff are a  
hundred orange groves and gardens, flecked with glimpses of the white  
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