the putrefaction and corruption imaginable.

We were there five minutes, and when we got out it was hard to tell which

of us carried the vilest fragrance.

These miserable outcasts called that "fumigating" us, and the term was a

tame one indeed. They fumigated us to guard themselves against the

cholera, though we hailed from no infected port. We had left the cholera

far behind us all the time. However, they must keep epidemics away

somehow or other, and fumigation is cheaper than soap. They must either

wash themselves or fumigate other people. Some of the lower classes had

rather die than wash, but the fumigation of strangers causes them no

pangs. They need no fumigation themselves. Their habits make it

unnecessary. They carry their preventive with them; they sweat and

fumigate all the day long. I trust I am a humble and a consistent

Christian. I try to do what is right. I know it is my duty to "pray for

them that despitefully use me;" and therefore, hard as it is, I shall

still try to pray for these fumigating, maccaroni-stuffing

organ-grinders.

Our hotel sits at the water's edge--at least its front garden does--and

we walk among the shrubbery and smoke at twilight; we look afar off at

Switzerland and the Alps, and feel an indolent willingness to look no

closer; we go down the steps and swim in the lake; we take a shapely

little boat and sail abroad among the reflections of the stars; lie on

the thwarts and listen to the distant laughter, the singing, the soft

223

The Innocents Abroad