acceptable product. This process retains the original color and some of the flavor.

. Dried like other fruits, in hot dehydrating ovens at about 190°F (88°C) with fans to draw

the moisture off, a process that takes only a few hours. The process is quick and eliminates the need

for sulfur or pasteurization because of the heat that kills microorganisms. But the tomato turns rather

dark, losing its attractive color, because the heat partially caramelizes sugar. The heat also alters the

flavor a great deal, more than pasteurization does.

3. Dehydrated without heat by blowing fans. In warm weather this process takes about 36

hours and results in a product similar to sun-dried tomatoes with good red color and moderate

change in flavor. To kill all larvae, processors freeze the dried tomatoes for two days.

It takes 17 pounds (17 kg) of fresh tomatoes to make 1 pound (1 kg) of dehydrated product

after about 95 percent of the moisture evaporates. Processors’ favorite is Roma tomatoes, which

have less moisture to begin with, but some small specialty producers use other, more flavorful

varieties and sell them for premium prices. While firm and low in moisture, commercial Romas are

not very flavorful tomatoes even when fully ripe. None of the dehydrated tomatoes have anywhere

near the flavor of vine-ripened tomatoes. But they do have their own distinctive flavor and special

place in our kitchens.

Dried tomatoes in the kitchen

Dried tomatoes are easy to rehydrate in hot water. The smaller pieces rehydrate in seconds,

while halves take about three minutes. To make dried tomatoes even easier to use, food packers now

rehydrate them, pack them in olive oil and sell as "marinated" dried tomatoes. (The name is

incorrect because true marinating changes flavor and texture.) The oil keeps the tomatoes from

spoiling which they are susceptible to after rehydration. These oil-packed tomatoes are ready for use

for any purpose, but they cut deeply into your food budget. You can easily do the same thing

yourself and at a much lower cost. Just rehydrate dried tomatoes in hot water, drain, pack them in a

jar and cover with olive or other vegetable oil. Very simple, very inexpensive.

One problem cooks face with dehydrated tomatoes is chopping. They are tough and a knife

doesn't make your job easier. Kitchen shears work a little better, but it is still a slow and tedious job

if you want to chop a cup or two. Here is an easier way. Freeze them first, then put them in a plastic

bag and hit them with a hammer. This method doesn't produce perfect slivers of tomato, but the

small pieces are suitable for most purposes. If you have dried tomato halves and want slivers, the

easiest method is to rehydrate the halves in hot water, drain and cut the softened tomatoes into

slivers with a knife.

Dried tomatoes have a long shelflife compared to fresh tomatoes. Processors say that after

six months they will lose considerable flavor, and the color gradually darkens due to oxidation.

They suggest not keeping dried tomatoes beyond a year but that is too conservative. After keeping

them for several years to me they seemed perfectly fine both in color and flavor. Putting them under

oil keeps them from deteriorating. Some vegetable oils may turn rancid if not refrigerated, but in

pure olive oil dried tomatoes should stay fine for several years without losing flavor or changing

color.

Specialty food stores sometimes carry such strange items as dried tomato paste in tubes like

toothpaste, or in jars labeled tomato tapenade. Both are basically dried tomato purée with added

olive oil, garlic and herbs. You are better off making your own from canned tomato paste at a

fraction of the cost and with far better flavor.

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