bear fruit, they collect the seeds. Any plant propagated from these seeds will include the new

genetic message.

In the case of tomatoes, researchers splice genes into the plant that will slow the action of a

fruit-softening enzyme (polygalacturonase or PG for short). The genetically altered tomato can

remain on the vine much longer without getting soft. Instead of harvesting in the mature green

stage, the grower harvests it when red but still firm.

I was among the first to search for the genetically-altered version and compare it to other

tomatoes on the local market. This was in the middle of the fresh tomato season in Northern

California, so there were plenty of "normal" ones to compare with the genetically-altered

"McGregor" tomatoes, as they named the first ones.

The altered tomatoes were large, firm, pinkish-red and attractive, weighing about ½ pound

(225 g) each. They were not as red as a fully vine-ripened tomato though, and sold for about two

and a half times what other store tomatoes cost. The flavor was pleasant and tomatoey but

disappointing. When I compared this tomato to an artificially-ripened supermarket tomato, the new

kind had somewhat more flavor, but it could not come near the farmers' market vine-ripened

tomatoes. In the middle of winter when you long for fresh tomatoes, genetically altered ones could

be your answer.

However, the McGregor tomatoes didn’t make it past their second birthday and the

company withdrew them from the market claiming problems with their production and distribution.

Apparently, they didn’t live up to supermarket produce managers’ tomato tests expectations—they

didn’t survive the six-foot-drop tests three times as other tomatoes, and they survived poorly in

transportation.

Tomatoes in the Kitchen

Most good cookbooks tell you not to refrigerate your tomatoes. It is true that in cold

temperatures tomatoes, like all foods, lose much of their flavor. Wholesale produce distributors and

supermarkets never refrigerate tomatoes either. They keep them in a cool room at about 55°F

(13°C) once they reach the red but firm stage. And you never see them in the chilled vegetable bins

at the produce department. However, lately food scientists disputed the no-refrigeration rule. As a

consequence, I tested two identical-looking, fresh, candy-red vine-ripened tomatoes. One shivered a

full day in the refrigerator and the second one rested patiantly on the cool kitchen counter. At the

end of the experiment I allowed the chilled tomato to come back to room temperature and cut both

tomatoes for a taste test. I couldn't detect any difference in flavor or texture. The no-refrigeration

rule for tomatoes appears to be an old myth. I urge you to try your own tomato experiment.

TASTINGS Tomato equivalents

1 medium tomato is ½ cup and equals 1 tablespoon tomato paste

To get tomato sauce from paste, dilute 1 part paste with 2 parts water

Tomato purée is halfway between sauce and paste in concentration

2 medium tomatoes is ½ pound (225 g) or 1 cup chopped

1 pound (450 g) tomato yields 1½ cups drained pulp

A large tomato is 7-8 ounces (200-225 g), a medium tomato 4-5 ounces (110-

140 g), a small tomato 3 ounces (85 g)

If you buy tomatoes that are still pink rather than red, ripen them in a warm place for a few

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