The Innocents Abroad


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doors are arched with the peculiar arch we see in Moorish pictures; the  
floors are laid in varicolored diamond flags; in tesselated, many-colored  
porcelain squares wrought in the furnaces of Fez; in red tiles and broad  
bricks that time cannot wear; there is no furniture in the rooms (of  
Jewish dwellings) save divans--what there is in Moorish ones no man may  
know; within their sacred walls no Christian dog can enter. And the  
streets are oriental--some of them three feet wide, some six, but only  
two that are over a dozen; a man can blockade the most of them by  
extending his body across them. Isn't it an oriental picture?  
There are stalwart Bedouins of the desert here, and stately Moors proud  
of a history that goes back to the night of time; and Jews whose fathers  
fled hither centuries upon centuries ago; and swarthy Riffians from the  
mountains--born cut-throats--and original, genuine Negroes as black as  
Moses; and howling dervishes and a hundred breeds of Arabs--all sorts and  
descriptions of people that are foreign and curious to look upon.  
And their dresses are strange beyond all description. Here is a bronzed  
Moor in a prodigious white turban, curiously embroidered jacket, gold and  
crimson sash, of many folds, wrapped round and round his waist, trousers  
that only come a little below his knee and yet have twenty yards of stuff  
in them, ornamented scimitar, bare shins, stockingless feet, yellow  
slippers, and gun of preposterous length--a mere soldier!--I thought he  
was the Emperor at least. And here are aged Moors with flowing white  
beards and long white robes with vast cowls; and Bedouins with long,  
cowled, striped cloaks; and Negroes and Riffians with heads clean-shaven  
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86 87 88 89 90

Quick Jump
1 187 374 560 747