was the way they did at Constantinople. They took a lively interest in

new countries, but their school-boy impatience had worn off, and they had

learned that it was wisdom to take things easy and go along comfortably

--these old countries do not go away in the night; they stay till after

breakfast.

When we reached the pier we found an army of Egyptian boys with donkeys

no larger than themselves, waiting for passengers--for donkeys are the

omnibuses of Egypt. We preferred to walk, but we could not have our own

way. The boys crowded about us, clamored around us, and slewed their

donkeys exactly across our path, no matter which way we turned. They

were good-natured rascals, and so were the donkeys. We mounted, and the

boys ran behind us and kept the donkeys in a furious gallop, as is the

fashion at Damascus. I believe I would rather ride a donkey than any

beast in the world. He goes briskly, he puts on no airs, he is docile,

though opinionated. Satan himself could not scare him, and he is

convenient--very convenient. When you are tired riding you can rest your

feet on the ground and let him gallop from under you.

We found the hotel and secured rooms, and were happy to know that the

Prince of Wales had stopped there once. They had it every where on

signs. No other princes had stopped there since, till Jack and I came.

We went abroad through the town, then, and found it a city of huge

commercial buildings, and broad, handsome streets brilliant with

gas-light. By night it was a sort of reminiscence of Paris. But finally

Jack found an ice-cream saloon, and that closed investigations for that

697

The Innocents Abroad