The Innocents Abroad


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Esdraelon, Ajalon and the borders of Galilee--but even then these spots  
would seem mere toy gardens set at wide intervals in the waste of a  
limitless desolation.  
Palestine sits in sackcloth and ashes. Over it broods the spell of a  
curse that has withered its fields and fettered its energies. Where  
Sodom and Gomorrah reared their domes and towers, that solemn sea now  
floods the plain, in whose bitter waters no living thing exists--over  
whose waveless surface the blistering air hangs motionless and dead  
--about whose borders nothing grows but weeds, and scattering tufts of  
cane, and that treacherous fruit that promises refreshment to parching  
lips, but turns to ashes at the touch. Nazareth is forlorn; about that  
ford of Jordan where the hosts of Israel entered the Promised Land with  
songs of rejoicing, one finds only a squalid camp of fantastic Bedouins  
of the desert; Jericho the accursed, lies a moldering ruin, to-day, even  
as Joshua's miracle left it more than three thousand years ago; Bethlehem  
and Bethany, in their poverty and their humiliation, have nothing about  
them now to remind one that they once knew the high honor of the  
Saviour's presence; the hallowed spot where the shepherds watched their  
flocks by night, and where the angels sang Peace on earth, good will to  
men, is untenanted by any living creature, and unblessed by any feature  
that is pleasant to the eye. Renowned Jerusalem itself, the stateliest  
name in history, has lost all its ancient grandeur, and is become a  
pauper village; the riches of Solomon are no longer there to compel the  
admiration of visiting Oriental queens; the wonderful temple which was  
the pride and the glory of Israel, is gone, and the Ottoman crescent is  
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691 692 693 694 695

Quick Jump
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