The Innocents Abroad


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touch glasses and drink health, prosperity and long life to the Convent  
Fathers of Palestine.  
So, rested and refreshed, we fell into line and filed away over the  
barren mountains of Judea, and along rocky ridges and through sterile  
gorges, where eternal silence and solitude reigned. Even the scattering  
groups of armed shepherds we met the afternoon before, tending their  
flocks of long-haired goats, were wanting here. We saw but two living  
creatures. They were gazelles, of "soft-eyed" notoriety. They looked  
like very young kids, but they annihilated distance like an express  
train. I have not seen animals that moved faster, unless I might say it  
of the antelopes of our own great plains.  
At nine or ten in the morning we reached the Plain of the Shepherds, and  
stood in a walled garden of olives where the shepherds were watching  
their flocks by night, eighteen centuries ago, when the multitude of  
angels brought them the tidings that the Saviour was born. A quarter of  
a mile away was Bethlehem of Judea, and the pilgrims took some of the  
stone wall and hurried on.  
The Plain of the Shepherds is a desert, paved with loose stones, void of  
vegetation, glaring in the fierce sun. Only the music of the angels it  
knew once could charm its shrubs and flowers to life again and restore  
its vanished beauty. No less potent enchantment could avail to work this  
miracle.  
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682 683 684 685 686

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