The Innocents Abroad


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sounds, is not noticed a block away, in the city, but the sailor hears it  
far at sea, whither none of those thousands of trifling sounds can reach.  
When one is in Rome, all the domes are alike; but when he has gone away  
twelve miles, the city fades utterly from sight and leaves St. Peter's  
swelling above the level plain like an anchored balloon. When one is  
traveling in Europe, the daily incidents seem all alike; but when he has  
placed them all two months and two thousand miles behind him, those that  
were worthy of being remembered are prominent, and those that were really  
insignificant have vanished. This disposition to smoke, and idle and  
talk, was not well. It was plain that it must not be allowed to gain  
ground. A diversion must be tried, or demoralization would ensue. The  
Jordan, Jericho and the Dead Sea were suggested. The remainder of  
Jerusalem must be left unvisited, for a little while. The journey was  
approved at once. New life stirred in every pulse. In the saddle  
--abroad on the plains--sleeping in beds bounded only by the horizon: fancy  
was at work with these things in a moment.--It was painful to note how  
readily these town-bred men had taken to the free life of the camp and  
the desert The nomadic instinct is a human instinct; it was born with  
Adam and transmitted through the patriarchs, and after thirty centuries  
of steady effort, civilization has not educated it entirely out of us  
yet. It has a charm which, once tasted, a man will yearn to taste again.  
The nomadic instinct can not be educated out of an Indian at all.  
The Jordan journey being approved, our dragoman was notified.  
At nine in the morning the caravan was before the hotel door and we were  
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