The Innocents Abroad


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vision of angels flitting up and down a ladder that reached from the  
clouds to earth, and caught glimpses of their blessed home through the  
open gates of Heaven.  
The pilgrims took what was left of the hallowed ruin, and we pressed on  
toward the goal of our crusade, renowned Jerusalem.  
The further we went the hotter the sun got, and the more rocky and bare,  
repulsive and dreary the landscape became. There could not have been  
more fragments of stone strewn broadcast over this part of the world, if  
every ten square feet of the land had been occupied by a separate and  
distinct stonecutter's establishment for an age. There was hardly a tree  
or a shrub any where. Even the olive and the cactus, those fast friends  
of a worthless soil, had almost deserted the country. No landscape  
exists that is more tiresome to the eye than that which bounds the  
approaches to Jerusalem. The only difference between the roads and the  
surrounding country, perhaps, is that there are rather more rocks in the  
roads than in the surrounding country.  
We passed Ramah, and Beroth, and on the right saw the tomb of the  
prophet  
Samuel, perched high upon a commanding eminence. Still no Jerusalem  
came  
in sight. We hurried on impatiently. We halted a moment at the ancient  
Fountain of Beira, but its stones, worn deeply by the chins of thirsty  
animals that are dead and gone centuries ago, had no interest for us--we  
longed to see Jerusalem. We spurred up hill after hill, and usually  
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