The Innocents Abroad


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clambering about them, or sitting astride their rumps, or pulling their  
tails. Tawny, black-eyed, barefooted maids, arrayed in rags and adorned  
with brazen armlets and pinchbeck ear-rings, were poising water-jars upon  
their heads, or drawing water from the well. A flock of sheep stood by,  
waiting for the shepherds to fill the hollowed stones with water, so that  
they might drink--stones which, like those that walled the well, were  
worn smooth and deeply creased by the chafing chins of a hundred  
generations of thirsty animals. Picturesque Arabs sat upon the ground,  
in groups, and solemnly smoked their long-stemmed chibouks. Other Arabs  
were filling black hog-skins with water--skins which, well filled, and  
distended with water till the short legs projected painfully out of the  
proper line, looked like the corpses of hogs bloated by drowning. Here  
was a grand Oriental picture which I had worshiped a thousand times in  
soft, rich steel engravings! But in the engraving there was no  
desolation; no dirt; no rags; no fleas; no ugly features; no sore eyes;  
no feasting flies; no besotted ignorance in the countenances; no raw  
places on the donkeys' backs; no disagreeable jabbering in unknown  
tongues; no stench of camels; no suggestion that a couple of tons of  
powder placed under the party and touched off would heighten the effect  
and give to the scene a genuine interest and a charm which it would  
always be pleasant to recall, even though a man lived a thousand years.  
Oriental scenes look best in steel engravings. I cannot be imposed upon  
any more by that picture of the Queen of Sheba visiting Solomon. I shall  
say to myself, You look fine, Madam but your feet are not clean and you  
smell like a camel.  
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