The Innocents Abroad


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not work. There is no one particular spot to chain your eye, rivet your  
interest, and make you think. The memory of the Pilgrims can not perish  
while Plymouth Rock remains to us. The old monks are wise. They know  
how to drive a stake through a pleasant tradition that will hold it to  
its place forever.  
We visited the places where Jesus worked for fifteen years as a  
carpenter, and where he attempted to teach in the synagogue and was  
driven out by a mob. Catholic chapels stand upon these sites and protect  
the little fragments of the ancient walls which remain. Our pilgrims  
broke off specimens. We visited, also, a new chapel, in the midst of the  
town, which is built around a boulder some twelve feet long by four feet  
thick; the priests discovered, a few years ago, that the disciples had  
sat upon this rock to rest, once, when they had walked up from Capernaum.  
They hastened to preserve the relic. Relics are very good property.  
Travelers are expected to pay for seeing them, and they do it cheerfully.  
We like the idea. One's conscience can never be the worse for the  
knowledge that he has paid his way like a man. Our pilgrims would have  
liked very well to get out their lampblack and stencil-plates and paint  
their names on that rock, together with the names of the villages they  
hail from in America, but the priests permit nothing of that kind.  
To speak the strict truth, however, our party seldom offend in that way,  
though we have men in the ship who never lose an opportunity to do it.  
Our pilgrims' chief sin is their lust for "specimens." I suppose that by  
this time they know the dimensions of that rock to an inch, and its  
weight to a ton; and I do not hesitate to charge that they will go back  
600  


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