The Innocents Abroad


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They have shown it in their conversation ever since we left Beirout.  
I can almost tell, in set phrase, what they will say when they see Tabor,  
Nazareth, Jericho and Jerusalem--because I have the books they will  
"smouch" their ideas from. These authors write pictures and frame  
rhapsodies, and lesser men follow and see with the author's eyes instead  
of their own, and speak with his tongue. What the pilgrims said at  
Cesarea Philippi surprised me with its wisdom. I found it afterwards in  
Robinson. What they said when Genessaret burst upon their vision,  
charmed me with its grace. I find it in Mr. Thompson's "Land and the  
Book." They have spoken often, in happily worded language which never  
varied, of how they mean to lay their weary heads upon a stone at Bethel,  
as Jacob did, and close their dim eyes, and dream, perchance, of angels  
descending out of heaven on a ladder. It was very pretty. But I have  
recognized the weary head and the dim eyes, finally. They borrowed the  
idea--and the words--and the construction--and the punctuation--from  
Grimes. The pilgrims will tell of Palestine, when they get home, not as  
it appeared to them, but as it appeared to Thompson and Robinson and  
Grimes--with the tints varied to suit each pilgrim's creed.  
Pilgrims, sinners and Arabs are all abed, now, and the camp is still.  
Labor in loneliness is irksome. Since I made my last few notes, I have  
been sitting outside the tent for half an hour. Night is the time to see  
Galilee. Genessaret under these lustrous stars has nothing repulsive  
about it. Genessaret with the glittering reflections of the  
constellations flecking its surface, almost makes me regret that I ever  
saw the rude glare of the day upon it. Its history and its associations  
581  


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