The Innocents Abroad


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wherever, about the premises, there is room for a cat to sit. There are  
no windows to a Syrian hut, and no chimneys. When I used to read that  
they let a bed-ridden man down through the roof of a house in Capernaum  
to get him into the presence of the Saviour, I generally had a  
three-story brick in my mind, and marveled that they did not break his  
neck with the strange experiment. I perceive now, however, that they  
might have taken him by the heels and thrown him clear over the house  
without discommoding him very much. Palestine is not changed any since  
those days, in manners, customs, architecture, or people.  
As we rode into Magdala not a soul was visible. But the ring of the  
horses' hoofs roused the stupid population, and they all came trooping  
out--old men and old women, boys and girls, the blind, the crazy, and the  
crippled, all in ragged, soiled and scanty raiment, and all abject  
beggars by nature, instinct and education. How the vermin-tortured  
vagabonds did swarm! How they showed their scars and sores, and  
piteously pointed to their maimed and crooked limbs, and begged with  
their pleading eyes for charity! We had invoked a spirit we could not  
lay. They hung to the horses's tails, clung to their manes and the  
stirrups, closed in on every aide in scorn of dangerous hoofs--and out of  
their infidel throats, with one accord, burst an agonizing and most  
infernal chorus: "Howajji, bucksheesh! howajji, bucksheesh! howajji,  
bucksheesh! bucksheesh! bucksheesh!" I never was in a storm like that  
before.  
As we paid the bucksheesh out to sore-eyed children and brown, buxom  
571  


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