The Innocents Abroad


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Greek inscriptions over niches in the rock where in ancient times the  
Greeks, and after them the Romans, worshipped the sylvan god Pan. But  
trees and bushes grow above many of these ruins now; the miserable huts  
of a little crew of filthy Arabs are perched upon the broken masonry of  
antiquity, the whole place has a sleepy, stupid, rural look about it, and  
one can hardly bring himself to believe that a busy, substantially built  
city once existed here, even two thousand years ago. The place was  
nevertheless the scene of an event whose effects have added page after  
page and volume after volume to the world's history. For in this place  
Christ stood when he said to Peter:  
"Thou art Peter; and upon this rock will I build my church, and the  
gates of hell shall not prevail against it. And I will give unto  
thee the keys of the Kingdom of Heaven; and whatsoever thou shalt  
bind on earth shall be bound in heaven, and whatsoever thou shalt  
loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven."  
On those little sentences have been built up the mighty edifice of the  
Church of Rome; in them lie the authority for the imperial power of the  
Popes over temporal affairs, and their godlike power to curse a soul or  
wash it white from sin. To sustain the position of "the only true  
Church," which Rome claims was thus conferred upon her, she has fought  
and labored and struggled for many a century, and will continue to keep  
herself busy in the same work to the end of time. The memorable words I  
have quoted give to this ruined city about all the interest it possesses  
to people of the present day.  
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