The Innocents Abroad


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CHAPTER XLIII.  
We had a tedious ride of about five hours, in the sun, across the Valley  
of Lebanon. It proved to be not quite so much of a garden as it had  
seemed from the hill-sides. It was a desert, weed-grown waste, littered  
thickly with stones the size of a man's fist. Here and there the natives  
had scratched the ground and reared a sickly crop of grain, but for the  
most part the valley was given up to a handful of shepherds, whose flocks  
were doing what they honestly could to get a living, but the chances were  
against them. We saw rude piles of stones standing near the roadside, at  
intervals, and recognized the custom of marking boundaries which obtained  
in Jacob's time. There were no walls, no fences, no hedges--nothing to  
secure a man's possessions but these random heaps of stones. The  
Israelites held them sacred in the old patriarchal times, and these other  
Arabs, their lineal descendants, do so likewise. An American, of  
ordinary intelligence, would soon widely extend his property, at an  
outlay of mere manual labor, performed at night, under so loose a system  
of fencing as this.  
The plows these people use are simply a sharpened stick, such as Abraham  
plowed with, and they still winnow their wheat as he did--they pile it on  
the house-top, and then toss it by shovel-fulls into the air until the  
wind has blown all the chaff away. They never invent any thing, never  
learn any thing.  
We had a fine race, of a mile, with an Arab perched on a camel. Some of  
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