The Innocents Abroad


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of the windows at the very familiar billows, and talking gossip.  
By 7 o'clock in the evening, dinner was about over; an hour's promenade  
on the upper deck followed; then the gong sounded and a large majority of  
the party repaired to the after cabin (upper), a handsome saloon fifty or  
sixty feet long, for prayers. The unregenerated called this saloon the  
"Synagogue." The devotions consisted only of two hymns from the Plymouth  
Collection and a short prayer, and seldom occupied more than fifteen  
minutes. The hymns were accompanied by parlor-organ music when the  
sea  
was smooth enough to allow a performer to sit at the instrument without  
being lashed to his chair.  
After prayers the Synagogue shortly took the semblance of a writing  
school. The like of that picture was never seen in a ship before.  
Behind the long dining tables on either side of the saloon, and scattered  
from one end to the other of the latter, some twenty or thirty gentlemen  
and ladies sat them down under the swaying lamps and for two or three  
hours wrote diligently in their journals. Alas! that journals so  
voluminously begun should come to so lame and impotent a conclusion as  
most of them did! I doubt if there is a single pilgrim of all that host  
but can show a hundred fair pages of journal concerning the first twenty  
days' voyaging in the Quaker City, and I am morally certain that not ten  
of the party can show twenty pages of journal for the succeeding twenty  
thousand miles of voyaging! At certain periods it becomes the dearest  
ambition of a man to keep a faithful record of his performances in a  
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43 44 45 46 47

Quick Jump
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