The Innocents Abroad


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that look a little smaller yet from the third--and from thence upward  
they grow smaller and smaller by a regularly graduated diminution, till  
the folks in the topmost windows seem more like birds in an uncommonly  
tall martin-box than any thing else. The perspective of one of these  
narrow cracks of streets, with its rows of tall houses stretching away  
till they come together in the distance like railway tracks; its  
clothes-lines crossing over at all altitudes and waving their bannered  
raggedness over the swarms of people below; and the white-dressed women  
perched in balcony railings all the way from the pavement up to the  
heavens--a perspective like that is really worth going into Neapolitan  
details to see.  
ASCENT OF VESUVIUS--CONTINUED.  
Naples, with its immediate suburbs, contains six hundred and twenty-five  
thousand inhabitants, but I am satisfied it covers no more ground than an  
American city of one hundred and fifty thousand. It reaches up into the  
air infinitely higher than three American cities, though, and there is  
where the secret of it lies. I will observe here, in passing, that the  
contrasts between opulence and poverty, and magnificence and misery, are  
more frequent and more striking in Naples than in Paris even. One must  
go to the Bois de Boulogne to see fashionable dressing, splendid  
equipages and stunning liveries, and to the Faubourg St. Antoine to see  
vice, misery, hunger, rags, dirt--but in the thoroughfares of Naples  
these things are all mixed together. Naked boys of nine years and the  
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