The Innocents Abroad


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Fourth--Some twelve or fifteen canonized Popes and martyrs.  
Fifth--Jesus Christ the Saviour--(but always as an infant in arms.)  
I may be wrong in this--my judgment errs often, just as is the case with  
other men's--but it is my judgment, be it good or bad.  
Just here I will mention something that seems curious to me. There are  
no "Christ's Churches" in Rome, and no "Churches of the Holy Ghost," that  
I can discover. There are some four hundred churches, but about a fourth  
of them seem to be named for the Madonna and St. Peter. There are so  
many named for Mary that they have to be distinguished by all sorts of  
affixes, if I understand the matter rightly. Then we have churches of  
St. Louis; St. Augustine; St. Agnes; St. Calixtus; St. Lorenzo in Lucina;  
St. Lorenzo in Damaso; St. Cecilia; St. Athanasius; St. Philip Neri; St.  
Catherine, St. Dominico, and a multitude of lesser saints whose names are  
not familiar in the world--and away down, clear out of the list of the  
churches, comes a couple of hospitals: one of them is named for the  
Saviour and the other for the Holy Ghost!  
Day after day and night after night we have wandered among the crumbling  
wonders of Rome; day after day and night after night we have fed upon the  
dust and decay of five-and-twenty centuries--have brooded over them by  
day and dreampt of them by night till sometimes we seemed moldering away  
ourselves, and growing defaced and cornerless, and liable at any moment  
350  


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