The Innocents Abroad


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ecstasies over its coarse mosaics, its unlovely Byzantine architecture,  
or its five hundred curious interior columns from as many distant  
quarries. Every thing was worn out--every block of stone was smooth and  
almost shapeless with the polishing hands and shoulders of loungers who  
devoutly idled here in by-gone centuries and have died and gone to the  
dev--no, simply died, I mean.  
Under the altar repose the ashes of St. Mark--and Matthew, Luke and John,  
too, for all I know. Venice reveres those relics above all things  
earthly. For fourteen hundred years St. Mark has been her patron saint.  
Every thing about the city seems to be named after him or so named as to  
refer to him in some way--so named, or some purchase rigged in some way  
to scrape a sort of hurrahing acquaintance with him. That seems to be  
the idea. To be on good terms with St. Mark, seems to be the very summit  
of Venetian ambition. They say St. Mark had a tame lion, and used to  
travel with him--and every where that St. Mark went, the lion was sure to  
go. It was his protector, his friend, his librarian. And so the Winged  
Lion of St. Mark, with the open Bible under his paw, is a favorite emblem  
in the grand old city. It casts its shadow from the most ancient pillar  
in Venice, in the Grand Square of St. Mark, upon the throngs of free  
citizens below, and has so done for many a long century. The winged lion  
is found every where--and doubtless here, where the winged lion is, no  
harm can come.  
St. Mark died at Alexandria, in Egypt. He was martyred, I think.  
However, that has nothing to do with my legend. About the founding of  
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