The Innocents Abroad


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Half of that night, and all of the next day, this architectural autocrat  
was our sole object of interest.  
What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate,  
so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems in  
the soft moonlight only a fairy delusion of frost-work that might vanish  
with a breath! How sharply its pinnacled angles and its wilderness of  
spires were cut against the sky, and how richly their shadows fell upon  
its snowy roof! It was a vision!--a miracle!--an anthem sung in stone, a  
poem wrought in marble!  
Howsoever you look at the great cathedral, it is noble, it is beautiful!  
Wherever you stand in Milan or within seven miles of Milan, it is visible  
and when it is visible, no other object can chain your whole attention.  
Leave your eyes unfettered by your will but a single instant and they  
will surely turn to seek it. It is the first thing you look for when you  
rise in the morning, and the last your lingering gaze rests upon at  
night. Surely it must be the princeliest creation that ever brain of man  
conceived.  
At nine o'clock in the morning we went and stood before this marble  
colossus. The central one of its five great doors is bordered with a  
bas-relief of birds and fruits and beasts and insects, which have been so  
ingeniously carved out of the marble that they seem like living  
creatures--and the figures are so numerous and the design so complex that  
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Page
191 192 193 194 195

Quick Jump
1 187 374 560 747