The Innocents Abroad


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peace--what other, where all was repose and contentment? In cool  
mornings, before the sun was fairly up, it was worth a lifetime of city  
toiling and moiling to perch in the foretop with the driver and see the  
six mustangs scamper under the sharp snapping of the whip that never  
touched them; to scan the blue distances of a world that knew no lords  
but us; to cleave the wind with uncovered head and feel the sluggish  
pulses rousing to the spirit of a speed that pretended to the resistless  
rush of a typhoon! Then thirteen hundred miles of desert solitudes; of  
limitless panoramas of bewildering perspective; of mimic cities, of  
pinnacled cathedrals, of massive fortresses, counterfeited in the eternal  
rocks and splendid with the crimson and gold of the setting sun; of dizzy  
altitudes among fog-wreathed peaks and never-melting snows, where  
thunders and lightnings and tempests warred magnificently at our feet and  
the storm clouds above swung their shredded banners in our very faces!  
But I forgot. I am in elegant France now, and not scurrying through the  
great South Pass and the Wind River Mountains, among antelopes and  
buffaloes and painted Indians on the warpath. It is not meet that I  
should make too disparaging comparisons between humdrum travel on a  
railway and that royal summer flight across a continent in a stagecoach.  
I meant in the beginning to say that railway journeying is tedious and  
tiresome, and so it is--though at the time I was thinking particularly of  
a dismal fifty-hour pilgrimage between New York and St. Louis. Of course  
our trip through France was not really tedious because all its scenes and  
experiences were new and strange; but as Dan says, it had its  
"discrepancies."  
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