The 1918 Fanny Farmer Cookbook

than poultry, is of fine though strong flavor, and easy of digestion. Game meat is usually of

dark

highly

color, partridge and quail being exceptions, and is usually cooked rare. Venison, the flesh of

deer, is short−fibred, dark−colored, highly savored, tender, and easy of digestion; being

savored, it often disagrees with those of weak digestion.

Geese are in market throughout the year, Massachusetts and Rhode Island furnishing

specially

good ones. A goose twelve weeks old is known as a green goose. They may be found in

market from May to September. Young geese which appear in market September first and

continue through December are called goslings. They have been hatched during May and

June,

and then fatted for market.

Young ducks, found in market about March first, are called ducklings. Canvasback Ducks

have gained a fine reputation throughout the country, and are found in market from the last of

November until March. Redhead Ducks are in season two weeks earlier, and are about as

good eating as Canvasback Ducks, and much less in price. The distinctive flavor of both is

due

the

to the wild celery on which they feed. Many other kinds of ducks are found in market during

fall and winter. Examples: Widgeon, Mallard, Lake Erie Teal, Black Ducks, and Butterballs.

Fresh quail are in market from October fifteenth to January first, the law forbidding their

being

killed at any other time in the year. The same is true of partridge, but both are frozen and kept

in cold storage several months. California sends frozen quail in large numbers to Eastern

markets. Grouse (prairie chicken) are always obtainable,−fresh ones in the fall; later, those

kept in cold storage. Plover may be bought from April until December.

To Select Poultry and Game. A chicken is known by soft feet, smooth skin, and soft

cartilage at end of breastbone. An abundance of pinfeathers always indicates a young bird,

while the presence of long hairs denotes age. In a fowl the feet have become hard and dry

with

coarse scales, and cartilage at end of breastbone has ossified. Cock turkeys are usually better

eating than hen turkeys, unless hen turkey is young, small, and plump. A good turkey should

plump, have smooth dark legs, and cartilage at end of breastbone soft and pliable. Good geese

abound in pinfeathers. Small birds should be plump, have soft feet and pliable bills.

To Dress and Clean Poultry. Remove hairs and down by holding the bird over a flame

(from gas, alcohol, or burning paper) and constantly changing position until all parts of

surface

have been exposed to flame; this is known as singeing. Cut off the head and draw out

pinfeathers, using a small pointed knife. Cut through the skin around the leg one and one−half

Chapter XVII − POULTRY AND GAME

281