The 1918 Fanny Farmer Cookbook

part of shin is used, the soup, although rich in gelatin, lacks flavor, unless a cheap piece of

meat is used with it, which frequently is done. It must be remembered that meat, bone, and fat

the right proportions are all necessary; allow two−thirds lean meat, the remaining one−third

and fat. From the meat the soluble juices, salts, extractives (which give color and flavor), and

small quantity of gelatin are extracted; from the bone, gelatin (which gives the stock when

jelly−like consistency) and mineral matter. Gelatin is also obtained from cartilage, skin,

lean

bone

cold a

tendons,

and ligaments. Some of the fat is absorbed; the remainder rises to the top and should be

removed.

Soup−stock making is rendered easier by use of proper utensils. Sharp meat knives,

hardwood

board, two purée strainers having meshes of different size, and a soup digester (a

porcelain−lined

iron pot, having tight−fitting cover, with valve in the top), or covered granite kettle, are

essentials.

An iron kettle, which formerly constituted one of the furnishings of a range, may be used if

perfectly smooth. A saw, cleaver, and scales, although not necessary, are useful, and lighten

labor.

When meat comes from market, remove from paper and put in cool place. When ready to

start

stock, if scales are at hand, weigh meat and bone to see if correct proportions have been sent.

Wipe meat with clean cheesecloth wrung out of cold water. Cut lean meat in one−inch cubes;

so doing, a large amount of surface is exposed to the water, and juices are more easily drawn

out. Heat frying−pan hissing hot; remove marrow from marrow−bone, and use enough to

brown

one−third of the lean meat, stirring constantly, that all parts of surface may be seared, thus

preventing escape of juices,−sacrificing a certain amount of goodness in the stock to give

additional color and flavor, which is obtained by caramelization. Put fat, bone, and remaining

lean meat in soup kettle; cover with cold water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat,

bone,

and fat. Let stand one hour, that cold water may draw out juices from meat. Add browned

meat, taking water from soup kettle to rinse out frying−pan, that none of the coloring may be

lost.

rise

Heat gradually to boiling−point, and cook six or seven hours at low temperature. A scum will

on the top, which contains coagulated albuminous juices; these give to soup its chief nutritive

value; many, however, prefer a clear soup, and have them removed. If allowed to remain,

when

the

straining, a large part will pass through strainer. Vegetables, spices, and salt should be added

last hour of cooking. Strain and cool quickly; by so doing, stock is less apt to ferment. A

Chapter VIII − SOUPS

132