size of the oysters. It is anywhere from a mere 5 percent for thick-shelled, small oysters to about

5 percent. If you buy oysters in the shell by the number, count on 6 to 9 per serving or if you

buy them shucked, 4 to 5 ounces (110 to 140 g) by weight or 6 to 8 ounces (180 to 240 ml) by

liquid volume.

Scallops have firm, ivory-colored meat that can be divine if not overcooked. The flavor is

sweet, nutty and delicate. They are readily available in seafood markets, but they must be

absolutely fresh to be good. Everything between the two shells is edible, although in North

America people opt for the single large adductor muscle only. Unlike clam shells, the two halves

of a scallop shell don't completely close. They dehydrate quickly after harvesting and die if the

fishermen don’t keep them in optimum environment. Because they are so perishable, processors

often clean scallops on board the fishing vessel and keep them on ice. They are not as easily

available for harvesting as shrimp. The fishermen must catch enough to make it worthwhile to

bring them into port, so those unfortunate ones they caught early may be shivering quite a while

on ice before they haul the last ones in.

Storing scallops in fresh water improves the all-important appearance for marketability.

Unfortunately for the consumer, this also increases weight and dilutes flavor.

Individually quick-frozen scallops retain their freshness, flavor and moisture well, and

you often get a better buy and quality than fresh ones when you cannot validate just how fresh is

fresh. Distributors usually soak scallops destined to sell as fresh in a chemical (sodium

tripolyphosphate) to retain moisture and improve appearance. They may look great but be

wary—the chemical alters the flavor and you might think of wandering over to the frozen

counter instead.

Stores commonly sell two major species of scallops, the small and more delicately

flavored bay scallops and the larger, more abundant and nearly as good sea scallops, which are

much cheaper. Tiny calico scallops from Florida are very uncommon. They resemble bay

scallops but supposedly don't have as good a flavor.

The scallops at the market are pure meat, you only lose the liquid it releases on cooking.

Count on 4 to 5 ounces (110 to 140 g) per person.

Shrimp is without doubt our most popular shellfish and among the most popular of all

seafood. With its firm meat (when not overcooked) and delicate, distinctive but not

overpowering flavor, even diners who never choose seafood from a menu may order shrimp

(provided there's some juicy red meat on the plate next to the shrimp). A dozen different species

of commercially important shrimp grow in various parts of the world. With modern air

transportation, we have access to all of them. Flavor has nothing to do with size, but restaurants

prefer the large shrimp, because they are easier and faster to shell and look very showy on the

plate. Diners are also willing to pay extra for colossal and jumbo sizes.

Sizes vary tremendously. Really tiny shrimp weigh less than one-tenth of an ounce (3 g)

each (the weight of a clove of garlic), while the giant species weigh in at about half a pound (225

g), too much for one serving.

A significant amount of imported shrimp is now coming from Asian shrimp farms, where

they harvest and immediately flash freeze them, then ship by air all over the world. Shrimp are

so perishable that they must freeze them immediately after they leave the water. If the shrimp

you brought home from the store turns out not very good, blame it on the handling somewhere

between the water and your plate. (Or blame the cook.) It is the underpaid retail store worker that

knows the least about handling and storing to preserve flavor. Your best bet is to buy shrimp

frozen, if you can find it packaged in the right quantity, and defrost it yourself. (See suggestions

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