according to size:

littlenecks—8 to 14 in a pound (18 to 37 in a kg) (these are 3 to 4 years

old)

topnecks—5 to 7 in a pound (11 to 15 in a kg)

cherrystones—3 to 5 in a pound (7 to 11 in a kg) (these are about 5 years

old)

chowders—2 to 3 in a pound (4 to 7 in a kg) (these are large, older,

tougher clams and the meat is only edible ground or minced)

Only 20 to 30 percent of the gross weight of clam in the shell is edible meat, more for

larger clams, less for smaller ones. The giant geoduck clam (pronounced GOO-y-duck) for

instance, is 70 percent edible muscle.

For most clams, 6 to 8 shells per serving is enough but ask the clerk if you are unfamiliar

with the specific clam you are buying. Geoduck, however, has so much meat that count on 5½ to

ounces (160 to 200 g) of weight, including the shell, per person. Geoducks are huge, some

weigh over 5 pounds (2¼ kg).

TASTINGS Clam juice, broth and nectar

Clam juice is the liquid that accumulates in the shucking operation. Clam broth

is clam juice diluted with cooking water. Clam nectar is the cooked-down

concentrate of clam juice.

Conch (pronounced KONK) is a single-valved mollusk. It is locally available along

south Florida shores and in the Caribbean, though you may find it in some restaurants in other

areas. It is the large muscle of the foot that is edible, and it needs tenderizing, like abalone, or

cooking it as ground meat. The flavor is mild, suitable for salads and chowders. Count on 2 or 3

conchs per serving or, if already shelled, 4 to 5 ounces ( 110 to 140 g) of meat.

Crab is one of the three most popular shellfish consumed. There are 20 commercially

significant crabs species, eight of which are common in North America. In some species we use

the claw meat mainly. In others, it is the body meat, and in a few it is the leg meat that is prized.

Fresh crab is an excellent meat, but the canned variety is in an entirely different league. Raw

crab does not freeze well, so when you see frozen crab, it had been cooked or otherwise

processed. Frozen crab can be very good.

The versatility of this shellfish contributes to its popularity. Different species have

different textures, and some lend themselves more to certain cooking methods than others. In the

kitchen, crab is in three main categories:

Lump meat is a solid chunk of meat from the crab's body. Use it in dishes where

appearance is important.

Flake meat is smaller pieces from other parts of the body, not as wholesome in looks as

lump meat but still suitable for most crab recipes.

Claw meat comes in still smaller pieces. Use it when appearance is not critical, such as in

soups and in some salads.

Blue crab from the eastern U.S. is the most common species. Like all crabs, blue crab

sheds its shell when it runs out of room. The new shell grows in just a few days, but while that is

taking place, the crab is very vulnerable to predators. During those few naked days the rest of the

crab, including the meat, also grows very quickly. This is the ideal time for human predators to

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