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Roasting a whole bird  
The biggest challenge in poultry cooking is roasting a whole bird. How can you get both  
white and dark meat to come out at the same degree of doneness? That is a challenge. Dark meat  
forms thick chunks in the legs and thighs with a thick bone in the center. It takes longer to heat  
such massive pieces to the correct temperature than the breast meat which is less bulky and with  
only thin bones as support.  
Creative cooks have found some solutions to this problem, none of them easy. You can  
rotate the bird in the oven part way through roasting to have the legs and thighs exposed to heat  
as much as possible and drape cheesecloth over the breast to keep it moist and slow its cooking  
slightly. (Remove the cheesecloth during the last half hour to allow the breast to fully brown and  
crisp.)  
Basting frequently also helps. The cooking time remains the same, but the breast tends to  
retain more moisture when you baste. A troublesome technique that works perfectly well is to  
debone the entire bird and butterfly the meat (split it through the center so only a narrow piece of  
meat remains to hold the two halves together, then unfold it like butterfly wings). Sounds like a  
lot of work, but if you have a little experience with cutting up chicken or turkey, you can do the  
job in about 15 minutes. The butterflied bird, when flattened, cooks quickly and evenly in the  
oven or over the coals, and it is a snap to cut it up into serving pieces.  
Roasting duck and goose produces delectable crisp skin and deliciously succulent, moist  
meat. The challenge is what to do with the extra fat. The fat is in a thick layer between the meat  
and the skin. You can melt most of it out by starting to roast in a slow oven. Later, raise the heat  
to finish browning the meat. To facilitate melting the fat, slip your hand between the meat and  
the fat layer (not between the fat and the skin) and separate the two.  
A Chinese Peking duck technique is more complicated but very efficient and elegant.  
Immerse the duck or goose in boiling water for a minute, then let it air dry in the refrigerator for  
a full day. This rest time tightens the skin over the fat layer. When in the oven, the pressure of  
the tight skin helps to melt the fat.  
Unlike in chicken and turkey, there is less distinct white and dark meat in goose and  
duck. That helps to finish cooking both to the same degree of doneness.  
TASTINGS Weight Loss with Different Cooking Methods  
The less weight poultry loses in cooking, the juicier the meat will be. What you  
lose is meat juices. Below are the weight losses for three cooking methods  
(modified from Stadelman, et al.).  
¨
¨
¨
stewing  
frying  
roasting  
22%  
23%  
31%  
You lose the least in stewing because the surrounding liquid inhibits the loss of  
juices. The flavorful juices remain in the pot. Roasting is a slow, long process, so  
you expect a relatively high moisture loss. Much of the liquid evaporates but the  
flavor remains in the drip pan. The high temperature of frying also promotes  
moisture loss that you see as steam billowing up, but this method is so quick that  
there is not enough time for too much to escape.  
play © erdosh 82  


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