Tenderizers

If you have a tough cut of meat, use a tenderizer to make it tender. They are very

effective but, like marinades, they only work on thinner cuts because they won't penetrate more

than a finger-width or two below the meat surface. They can overtenderize, too, turning the

surface to mush.

Tenderizers contain enzymes that digest proteins and soften them chemically. Three

tenderizing enzymes are in common use:

papain from the latex of fully-grown but unripened papaya fruit

bromelin from the stem of mature pineapple

ficin from the latex of unripened fig or the stem of a ripe fig.

Commercial tenderizers blend two or all three in varying proportions because each is

effective in a different way. Papain softens meat fibers, but it doesn't degrade the tough collagen

very well. Bromelin degrades collagen but has little effect on meat fibers and tough connective

tissues (elastin). Ficin is too powerful to use by itself. It degrades both connective tissue of

collagen and elastin, but it also affects the meat fiber proteins. A blend of the three enzymes in

an optimum ratio tenderizes meat superbly. Tenderizers come in both sprays and dipping

solutions.

The food service industry also tenderizes meat with mechanical devices. One way is with

a machine that pierces it with hundreds of needles before they apply the tenderizer. You can do

the same thing in your kitchen by repeatedly piercing a tough chunk of meat with a fork.

Another way to tenderize tough cuts is mechanically. Use a special meat mallet to pound

tough cuts. The mallet breaks up the tough fibers and connective tissues. There is also a small

home kitchen tool with steel blades that also effectively breaks down fibers.

TASTINGS Mechanical tenderizers

There are two ways to tenderize meat with machines:

Needle tenderization—the meat runs through a machine with a bank of closely-

spaced needles that sever connective tissues and muscle fibers.

Blade tenderization—the meat runs under many rows of parallel blades, each row

rotating in opposite direction. They use this same machine to piece trimmings

together to make cubed steaks.

Commercial steak houses use both chemical and mechanical tenderizing a lot. The

tougher but flavorful cuts and lower grades meat make wonderful steaks after tenderizing and

their prices remain quite affordable

Hints from the chef

Here are some assorted hints to help you with your meat cooking.

Beef. This list from the National Cattlemen's Association gives you beef steaks with

decreasing degree of tenderness.

Tenderloin

Chuck top blade

Top loin

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