Serious Kitchen Play


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meat absorbs more oil.  
In the hot oil the moisture that moves outward from the center of the meat turns into  
steam near the hot surface that exerts an outward pressure to keep the oil out of the food. The  
sizzling you hear is the steam escaping through the hot oil bath. More moisture from the inside  
moves outward continuously, turns to steam near the surface of the food and continues to keep  
the oil out. If the oil temperature drops suddenly, steam production slows down and the oil can  
seep into the food. This happens if you either don’t use plenty of oil, add too many pieces into  
the oil at once or the food is too moist. Too hot oil is bad, too. The outside of the food browns  
too fast and inside remains partially cooked.  
The ideal frying temperature must be close to 375°F (192°C). To fry small or thin pieces  
of meat, you can heat it a little higher, but for larger pieces set it between 350°F to 365°F (178°C  
to 186°C) so you won't burn the outside before the inside is done.  
Choose a neutral-flavored vegetable oil with a high smoking point for frying or deep-  
frying. Almost any salad oil works well except olive oil which has too low smoking point (even  
though some recipes recommend it). If you don't have a deep-fryer, heat up enough oil in a large,  
heavy pot, so you can totally submerge the food without any piece touching the bottom. Keep  
track of the temperature as you are heating the oil, and as soon as it hits the mark, gently slip the  
meat, one at a time, being prepared to quickly cover the pot with a splash screen in case the oil  
spatters. Even better, use a frying basket if you have one, that you can momentarily lift out to  
avoid a mess. Oil only spatters for the first few seconds while the excess moisture generates  
plenty of steam, then it subsides. Keep adding a few pieces at a time to maintain the temperature  
and deep-fry until the meat is well-browned, then remove the pieces with a slotted spoon and set  
them on paper towels to absorb excess oil.  
Fresh oil is best for frying though many chefs claim that oil they have used more than  
once fries foods better. To save the used frying oil, let it cool and filter through a cheese cloth or  
paper filter. Store it in a closed container with as little air as possible to reduce oxidation (oxygen  
turns it rancid). Keeping it in the refrigerator also helps. Once you heated oil, it requires more  
care than fresh oil—it oxidizes faster and it deteriorates a little after each use. The smoking point  
lowers and the surface tension decreases, allowing it to seep into your food more readily. You  
can slow this process of deterioration if you blend fresh oil into to the used oil next time you use  
it.  
Stir-frying is a time-honored, quick Oriental method, now popular in the West, that uses  
very little oil. It is an excellent cooking method for tender meats. Stir-fried food develops superb  
flavor, because it works so fast. You need the highest heat you can generate and shortest time  
possible (novice cooks often stir-fry too long—they cannot believe any food can cook so  
quickly). A heavy wok over a burner that can provide intense heat is ideal. Neither a light-weight  
wok nor and electric wok work as well. Having not enough heat on your burner can also be a  
problem.  
To stir-fry, have all ingredients and all equipment at your fingertips before you begin.  
Then heat the wok until very hot. Add just a smear of oil, then the food and toss and turn  
continuously until the food browns on the outside. It doesn't take more than a few minutes.  
Contact with the hot metal surface transforms food faster than any other method except a  
blowtorch.  
Roasting, the last dry cooking method, is relatively slow because the heat is only  
moderate and is transferred to the food through air, which is a poor heat conductor. Preheat the  
oven before putting the food in and keep checking the food temperature to avoid overcooking.  
play © erdosh 61  


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