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Cooking is like love.
It should be entered into
with abandon or not at all.
Harriet Van Horne
INTRODUCTION
Play or Chore?
Is it a play or is it a chore? The art and science of cooking and baking may be either. If
your kitchen work is a play, you'll get years of fun reading this book and decades of references
that you'll keep checking and rechecking (and may be revising). If you are into other things, and
cooking for you is a genuine, certified chore, this book will help ease the pain, make the chore
efficient and quick, and the results more likely to be beyond just edible. In fact, you may even
become addicted and become one of the players.
This book is the result of many years of research into the immense culinary disciplines,
written for both the professional and the home cook. It is also the result of numerous kitchen
tests and experiments. The ancient art of cooking is still filled with many kitchen myths without
foundation—myths that have been propagated from generation to generation. Some have
scientific bases and are perfectly valid. Others are also valid but food scientists still don't know
why. There are kitchen myths without rhyme or reason, and only testing and re-testing in the
kitchen proves or invalidates them.
There are other myths that are new propagated by current fashionable chefs, cooks and
food writers, either through ignorance or snobbery. For example, many culinary professionals
state that imported pure durum wheat Italian pastas are far better than even the best domestic
pastas. Kitchen tests showed otherwise. Besides, Italian pasta makers import most of their durum
wheat from the wheat-growing regions of Canada and the United States, and their pasta-making
techniques are not superior to our own. So why would their pasta be better?
Focus on simple, common-sense cooking
Most new cookbooks today focus on new styles of cooking—trendy and unusual
ingredients are “in”, with exotic-sounding recipe titles and catchy phrases such as "nap the plate
with the sauce", "transporting the flavor", "mildly sweet to assertively spicy" and "intensify and
magnify the flavors".
In this book I prefer the basic approach to everyday cooking. The focus is how to produce
simple yet best-tasting foods with least effort, most efficiency, shortest time and with available
fresh ingredients. Exotic, hard-to-find food items rarely make a food better. In fact, they are
often of inferior quality because their slower turnover in the market. For instance, pine nuts are
authentic ingredient in an Italian pesto, but fresh pine nuts are not often available and they are
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