Serious Kitchen Play


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decreasing the fat content of the cut of meat on your plate.  
What the grower feeds his livestock is another important area that impacts the fat-to-lean  
ratio in meat. The total amount he feeds to the animals, as well as the balance of fat, protein and  
fiber in the feed, can do a lot to keep animals trim. Both trimmable, outside fat and internal  
marbling are affected by the animal's diet. Age of the animal at slaughter is a factor, too. Meat  
from younger animals is leaner. The more mature the animal, the higher the fat-to-muscle ratio  
(which is generally also same in humans).  
For example, some Montana ranchers began selling specially bred extra-lean beef raised  
without hormones or antibiotics at a cost of about 15 to 20 percent more than regular beef. To  
further reduce fat, they market these animals at a younger age and keep them on feed lots for  
only a short time. The result? The meat has minimum marbling, reduced flavor, it is dryer and  
less tender. Today consumers' acceptance of lower flavor, less tenderness and higher prices in  
exchange for lower fat is still questionable.  
Genetic modification of meat animals is highly controversial, though it holds the greatest  
hope for leaner meats. Genetic engineering can delete, add or mutate genes within a specific site  
in the DNA to dictate a favorable muscle-to-fat ratio. Consumers are wary of such meddling with  
meat and today we still don’t know if they will accept it or not.  
Lower-fat processed meat is a different story altogether. Processors can custom-tailor  
such meat to consumer needs to provide lower-fat, low-fat or no-fat products. The problem is the  
cost of the ingredients that they add to replace the fat. If the processor replaces 35 percent fat in a  
pound (half a kilo) of bologna, something has to take its place so the bologna still weighs one  
pound (half a kilo). Since fat is cheap and the consumer is reluctant to pay a premium price for  
no-fat bologna, the processor has to come up with a cheap substitute for fat.  
Both air and water qualify. It is hard to pump air into meat and not have the consumer  
complain (although we buy enough of it in ice cream that could be 50 percent air), but the  
processor can pump in a substantial amount of water with a binder substance to hold it. Water in  
meat even has advantages. It has the lubricating quality of fat, and it creates a sense of juiciness.  
Palatability, texture and a meaty consistency must be retained, too. Cheap or not, the processor  
can only inject just so much water. Injecting more there is too much loss of flavor.  
Another problem with adding water is that bacteria thrive with increasing moisture in  
their environment. How does the processor solve this problem? By adding more chemicals to  
preserve the product and lengthen shelflife. So now we have no-fat bologna with 35 percent  
water to replace the fat and extra chemicals to preserve the more perishable product. Bon appétit!  
Meat Basics  
All but our organ meats have three distinct parts—muscle, fat and connective tissue. All  
three are edible and digestible, but only the first two contain nutrition and flavor. Fat is the  
reason for our dietary problems, but connective tissues are the ones to give us headache in the  
kitchen. Once we learn how these problem connective tissues react to various cooking  
techniques, we have the key to tender meat dishes.  
To offer the most tender, juicy morsels of meat, let’s first learn a little about the three  
parts—muscle, fat and connective tissue.  
Muscles  
play © erdosh 38  


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