Serious Kitchen Play


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In addition to the four basic flavors food scientists in the mid-1980s developed a strong  
argument in favor of a fifth flavor, umami. It is a Japanese word that means deliciousness. Umami,  
the flavor of the food enhancer MSG, is a flavor that cannot be classified into any of the four basic  
flavors. You can experience this basic flavor yourself by sprinkling a few grains of MSG on your  
tongue. Don't expect anything "delicious". In such high concentration not even the best chocolate  
flavor is delicious, but you will get the idea. Many flavor scientists now accept that we have at least  
these five basic flavors that most of us can taste.  
In addition to these five tastes, there are others which are not primary flavors in the strict  
sense, yet we cannot ignore them because they are distinctive and they are there. Think of such  
tastes as spicy, metallic and astringent—flavor scientists yet to figure out how to deal with them.  
Flavorings and Enhancers in the Kitchen  
Buying and storing flavorings  
Virtually all of us use herbs and spices in their conventional forms we find in retail food  
markets. You can always buy herbs dried, some of them fresh. Spices are available dried, whole or  
ground, rarely in the fresh form. Ginger is an exception. Chefs and professional cooks use  
flavorings for the same reasons home cooks do, but they rely more on fresh ones whenever possible.  
That is because maximum flavor impact, which is what the fresh version offers, is important to them  
and that is one notable reason why their food tastes so good. The fresh forms are also more readily  
available and fresher at wholesale than retail because there is more demand for them and they have  
high turnover rate. But if restaurant chefs use dry herbs, they make certain they don’t keep them on  
their shelves for years as many home cooks do.  
Another reason for tasty professional food is that chefs use herbs and spices far more  
generously than home cooks do. And they know how to use them. Today's diners prefer full flavor  
with plenty of impact, and being heavy-handed with flavorings helps. Remember this in your own  
kitchen. In many recipes you can safely increase, double, even triple the amount of herbs and spices  
called for.  
But remember, too, that children taste food differently than you do. Children still have a  
large number of very sensitive taste buds. The flavor impact on those buds is more powerful than on  
ours, highly flavored foods easily overpower them. As we get older, we lose more and more of our  
taste buds, and highly seasoned foods become more acceptable. We may even seek out more intense  
flavors to titillate our remaining taste buds, something you need to know when cooking for older  
people. But use caution—even though older people have less taste buds, their tradition may favor  
mild, almost bland foods. You need to know your diners’ tastes and background to season their  
foods for their pleasure.  
Most of us buy fresh herbs mainly for special meals. But you don't really need fresh herbs  
and spices to get great-tasting food, dry seasonings are fine as long as they are not old and stale.  
Unfortunately, in many kitchens they have been on the shelf far too long to give much flavor. I am  
amazed to see spice containers in kitchens that should be in antique stores, though their content is  
still in use. Buy spices and herbs in small quantities, write the date on the container and replenish  
them with fresh ones when they get stale, usually within a couple of years of stored cool and dry.  
Buy all your flavorings whole as much as possible. They keep fresh far longer for two  
reasons. They expose a much smaller surface area to the air when whole, slowing the staling  
process. But when you grind them fresh, you break the cell walls open, allowing the essential oils to  
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