Serious Kitchen Play


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On British construction crews, for example, there used to be a small designated tea pail in  
which the gopher of the crew boiled the tea-water on whatever fire he could build three times a  
work shift. He measured the amount of loose tea leaves that he added to the prescribed amount of  
fresh-boiled water. As soon as the tea brewed for the correct five minutes, everyone dropped his or  
her tools for a proper tea-break. The crew could fire the gopher for not knowing the exact tea-  
brewing protocol. Today that old-fashioned tea is likely to be a can of soft drink or a hot beverage  
from a styrofoam cup from a nearby vendor or machine.  
In North America serious tea drinkers are definitely in the minority. Canadians are the  
exception, no doubt because of the English influence. French Canadians have also adopted this  
delightful custom. But even in Canada, the predominant hot beverage became coffee by the  
early 1980s.  
Tea Facts  
Tea does more than wet your whistle  
There is an aura that surrounds the steeping of tea and relaxing with the resultant brew. For  
many, a ceremonial, totally relaxed, almost spiritual atmosphere surrounds tea drinking. This is  
especially true for the Chinese and Japanese.  
Chinese tea drinking ceremonies were outlined in the years 700s with precise instructions in  
every aspect of tea brewing, from the plucking of the tea leaves to the brushing of the tea pot after  
use. The Japanese adopted tea drinking 500 years later in the 1200s and brought tea ceremonies to a  
new height with 37 steps to be followed precisely in a tea house. Not only the tea house is separate  
from the main house but even the construction of the tea house and the path leading to it have  
prescribed codes.  
English high tea, though by no means as strictly controlled by tradition as an Oriental tea  
ceremony, was quite an experience for a visitor. Starched, snow-white damask linen tablecloths and  
napkins, gleaming silver tea pots, milk and sugar containers, translucent bone china, intricate  
silverware, candelabras, doilies, cucumber sandwiches, tiny tarts, toast with marmalade, canapés,  
fruit platters, and still more bite-size sandwiches with watercress and cream cheese. What a sight!  
And the ladies and gentlemen in correct attire for the occasion!  
The term “high tea” is confusing to Americans, and today even the British disagree on its  
exact meaning. The term probably originated in Scotland and referred to a prosaic early supper, with  
accompanying tea. Afternoon tea was, and in some places still is, a fancy afternoon affair around 4  
o’clock with fresh-brewed tea as the centerpieces, surrounded by the numerous dainty little items  
that so pleased the eyes.  
In different British geographic areas the afternoon tea, or simply tea, meant different types  
of meals. More recent changes in working and family patterns further confused the term—changes  
that did not allow time for a social, more formal tea occasions. Canadians cashing in on the tourist  
trade confused the term still further as hotels in tourists areas introduced the pricey afternoon “high  
tea” concept that the British simply call tea—yet you must admit, high tea does sound better.  
The English afternoon tea, though, is more an experience for the eyes than the taste buds.  
The flavor of most of the traditional sandwiches and canapés falls far short for today's more  
sophisticated and educated palates. The famous English buttery, crumbly tarts, thick marmalades  
with large citrus pieces, real thick Devonshire clotted cream, however, are always worth seeking  
out. Then there is the actual tea! No one can brew a better cup of tea than the English, but they also  
play © erdosh 352  


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